Latest Posts

If you’re shopping for a truck, one of the first decisions you’ll face is gas or diesel. It’s a debate that truck owners take seriously, and the honest answer is: it depends on what you’re doing with the truck. Let’s break it down.

The Case for Diesel

Diesel trucks are built for work. The torque figures on a modern diesel, whether it’s a Duramax, Powerstroke, or Cummins — are hard to argue with when you’re towing heavy equipment, hauling loads, or working a farm. Diesel engines also tend to last longer under hard use. It’s common to see diesel trucks with 300,000+ miles still running strong.

Fuel economy is another advantage on the highway. Diesel gets more miles per gallon in most driving conditions, which matters if you’re putting on serious miles every week.

If you’re towing more than 10,000 lbs regularly, diesel is almost always the better choice.

The Case for Gas

Gas trucks have come a long way. Modern half-ton gas trucks are capable, comfortable, and considerably cheaper to buy and maintain. Fuel is typically less expensive, repairs are simpler, and there are far more mechanics who work on gas engines than diesel specialists.

Learn pros and cons and the difference in diesel and gas trucks.

Category	Diesel	Gas
Towing Capacity	Higher torque, better for heavy loads	Great for light-medium towing
Fuel Economy	Better highway MPG	Better city MPG in many cases
Upfront Cost	Higher purchase price	Lower purchase price
Maintenance Cost	More specialized, higher cost	Simpler, lower cost
Engine Longevity	Typically longer lifespan	Good longevity with care
Best For	Work trucks, fleets, heavy haulers	Daily drivers, light-duty use

What Does the Salvage Yard Tell Us?

Here’s an interesting perspective, at our yard, we see both gas and diesel trucks come through constantly. What we’ve noticed is that diesel engines and drivetrains from well-maintained trucks hold up remarkably well even at high mileage. Gas trucks are more plentiful in the used parts market, which means parts can be easier and cheaper to find.

The Bottom Line

Buy diesel if you work your truck hard, tow heavy, or put on serious highway miles. Buy gas if you want lower costs, simpler maintenance, and a truck that handles everyday driving without much fuss. Either way, take care of it and it’ll take care of you.

Buying a used engine can be one of the biggest decisions you’ll make for your truck or car. Done right, it can save you thousands. Done wrong, it can cost you more than a new engine would have. The difference comes down to knowing what to look for before you buy. In this reddit thread, they talk about their general experience with used engines.

We’ve pulled and sold a lot of engines over the years. Here’s the inspection process we’d walk any buyer through.

Check the Mileage and Source

The two most important questions to ask: How many miles are on the donor vehicle, and why did it end up at the salvage yard? A truck that came in from a rear-end collision with 60,000 miles on a well-maintained Cummins is a very different situation than an unknown engine from a flood vehicle.

💡 Always ask the yard for the donor vehicle’s history if available. Reputable yards will tell you what they know.

Check for External Oil Leaks

Look at the valve cover gaskets, the rear main seal area, and around the oil pan. A little surface grime is normal. Active, wet oil leaks are a red flag, they suggest the engine may have been run low on oil or has gasket problems that will need immediate attention.

Inspect the Coolant

Pull the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap if it’s accessible. Chocolate milkshake-colored coolant (brown and murky) is a serious warning sign, it means oil and coolant have mixed, which usually points to a head gasket failure or cracked head. Clear green or orange coolant is a good sign.

Look at the Oil

Pull the dipstick. The oil should be relatively clean and not smell burned. Gritty or metallic oil suggests internal wear. A big red flag about how the engine was maintained, will be a bone dry dipstick.

Check the Belts, Hoses and Accessories

How was the vehicle cared for? Cracked belts, swollen hoses and corroded connections can give you the answer. It won’t disqualify an engine on its own, but it gives you a picture of the maintenance history. On a diesel, also check the condition of the air filter if accessible.

Look for Physical Damage

Bent or cracked engine mounts, impact damage to the block or head, and broken accessory brackets are all things to look for. Some damage is purely cosmetic, a cracked plastic cover, for example. Other damage, like a cracked block, is a dealbreaker.

What to Ask the Yard

1. What was the mileage on the donor vehicle?
2. Why did the vehicle come in?
3. Was the engine running when it came in?
4. Is there any known damage to the engine?
5. What is your return or exchange policy?

A used engine from a reputable salvage yard is a legitimate option for keeping your truck or car on the road without breaking the bank. Just take your time with the inspection, ask the right questions, and trust your gut. If the yard can’t answer basic questions about the engine’s history, that tells you something too.

If you own a diesel truck, you already know that repairs can get expensive fast. But here’s what a lot of truck owners don’t realize: not every part needs to come out of a box from the dealer. Some of the best parts you can put on your truck come from a quality salvage yard and they’ll cost you a fraction of the price.

At Interstate Auto & Truck Salvage, we see all types of trucks come through every day. We’ve learned which parts hold up great when bought used and which ones you’re better off buying new. Here’s our top five list.

Transfer Cases

A transfer case from a wrecked truck with low miles is one of the best buys in the used parts world. These units are built to last, and if the truck was in a front-end collision, the drivetrain components are often completely untouched. You can save hundreds, sometimes over a thousand dollars, compared to a remanufactured unit.

Always ask for the mileage on the donor vehicle. Under 100k miles on a transfer case is a solid buy.

Turbochargers

Diesel turbos are expensive new. A used turbo from a low-mileage truck can work just as well and cost 50–70% less. The key is knowing what to look for, no excessive shaft play, no oil leaks at the inlet, and clean blades with no cracks or chips.

Have your mechanic inspect the turbo before you buy if you’re not sure what to look for. A quick inspection can save you from a bad purchase.

Transmission Assemblies

Allison transmissions, 6-speeds, and Aisin units all hold up well in the used market. A salvage transmission with documented mileage and no shifting complaints from the donor vehicle is a smart buy. Compare that to a rebuild cost and the math speaks for itself.

Doors, Hoods, and Body Panels

Body damage from an accident doesn’t mean the whole truck is worthless. Panels, doors, tailgates, and hoods from salvage trucks are often in great shape and matching the color at a salvage yard is easier than you’d think. This is especially useful for fleet owners keeping older work trucks on the road.

Axles and Differentials

Front and rear axle assemblies, differential housings, and ring and pinion sets from salvage trucks are solid used buys. These are robust components that rarely fail on their own, they usually end up at a salvage yard due to accident damage elsewhere on the vehicle.

Final Thoughts on Buying Used Parts

Buying used parts isn’t about cutting corners. It’s about being smart with your money. The right salvage yard, one that knows its inventory and is honest about mileage and condition, can be one of the best resources a truck owner has.

Come see us at Interstate Auto & Truck Salvage or give us a call to find out what we have in stock. We carry diesel trucks, gas trucks, SUVs, cars, and heavy-duty vehicles, so there’s a good chance we have what you’re looking for.